October 20 - A Sad and Abrupt Ending to My Trip

At the end of a absolutely wonderful 3 days in Wenzhou with Andy -- including seeing a beautiful China National Geopark and adding Andy's girlfriend's sister, mother and father as my "friends," and having a magnificient brunch of a wide array of local foods  -- I learned first that my dad was missing and then later that he had passed away.  So, with Korean Airlines superb assistance I have been able to change my flights to fly to Los Angeles.  I will arrive in Los Angeles on October 21 and drive a rental car to my hometown on the central coast.
 
I am currently sitting in the Seoul airport awaiting a connection for that flight to LAX.  This news article has already been published about my dad's passing: http://www.sanluisobispo.com/2013/10/20/2742666/wilmar-tognazzini-missing-since.html .

I had already prepared a couple of additional blog entries -- and I will post them at a later time.

October 16 - Dinner Brings Back 2009 Memories

During my first visit to China in 2009, Staci and Martin introduced me to one of their favorite haunts -- a tiny restaurant on the back streets of a Shenzhen neighborhood.  The restaurant prepares a distinctive cuisine called "Xinjiang" which has spread throughout China by Uyghur Muslim migrants (click on the linked words if you want more detail from Wikipedia). The restaurants have a common poster of photos of their menu and color scheme, and sometimes prepare the fresh noodles in public view (pulling the dough into strings).

These restaurants quickly became one of my favorites as well and I've sought them out when I've traveled including to Wuhan and Xian. I mentioned to Andy that I hoped to eat at one again during this trip -- and he was familiar with the restaurants and said there was one near his apartment.

Tonight we headed there for dinner -- and, as remembered, the noodles were wonderful.  Here are photos from our dinner tonight:

And just for the memories of it, here are photos from 2010 in Shenzhen when my daughter Debi accompanied me to visit Staci and Martin.

October 15 Revisited - "I'm a white person"

In this prior post, I told the story of trying to explain I was an American to some fellow lunch mates -- I even included my attempt at phonetics for what I think I said: "why reeg run." Well, today I got this email from my daughter Staci (who lived in China for a year).  I'm still laughing about it.  I have always wondered why the Chinese people I run into seem so happy to talk to me.  I used to think it was because I show a happy face and tone but Staci's email made me realize it may be because they find what I say hilariously stupid.

From: Staci
Date: Thu, Oct 17, 2013 at 1:06 PM

Just read your blog and cracked up: waiguoren means white person. Meiguoren does mean American but the way you pronounced it probably made them think you were answering the "where you from" question with "I'm a white person"... ahh language!! Love it.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: After I posted this, I got this followup email from Staci:

​

From: Staci
Date: Thu, Oct 17, 2013 at 6:15 PM

After thinking about it more, I'm actually wrong -- waiguoren just means "foreign person", not White person-- but the sentiment is the same.
Where you from? I'm a foreign person. ;)

October 16 - Back to Shanghai

With the weather turning colder yesterday, so did my hostel room and I awakened sometime in the middle of the night feeling very cold.  I hadn't seen any source of heat for the room except a wall air-conditioner with a remote on the desk.  So in my desperation, I thought perhaps the unit also provided heat.  I grabbed the remote to remedy the cold only to see that every button only had Chinese characters on it.  I tried everyone of them, trying to play a guessing game with the remote but all I accomplished was adding even more cold air to the room.  I debated with myself for a few seconds as to whether I should get dressed and go to the desk to figure it out -- but decided to resolve my predicament by just getting dressed and crawling back in bed.  That worked.  I warmed up and slept soundly the rest of the night.

Since my only goal for the day was to get back to Shanghai, I had a leisurely start and even had time to Facetime with Deb in Williamsburg, VA and daughter Debi and granddaughter Amelia in Portland.  Thereafter, I loaded by backpack and set out on foot for the train station.

 I followed my electronic mapping program to find my way walking to the train station (about 15 minutes away) and proceeded to the long ticket lines that I've now gotten comfortable with.  This time I was armed with the needed Chinese characters that Hongwei had texted me for everything I needed.

As I waited in one line, I got a tap on the shoulder by a uniformed officer indicating I should follow him.  I did as he indicated, and quickly learned that he was leading me to a line farther down the row of about 25 that had a "bilingual" sign above.  He smiled when I said "xiexie." Once again, somebody going out of their way to help me.

The ticketing went easy this time as I both spoke in English and showed her the characters Hongwei had sent me. Finding the departure gate was much easier. As I settled in my seat, I thought the advertiser's saying on the back of the drop down tray was appropriate to my life and trip.

Of course, I also reflected for a moment on the oddity of the saying (albeit for advertising) in a country known for its internet censorship (this blogging site, run by Google, as well as Facebook and others are blocked from access in China).

My ride back -- now familiar to Shanghai's rail station and then on the subway -- was super easy and comfortable.

DOES A SIGN ARROW POINT UP OR DOWN FOR "STRAIGHT AHEAD": For the record, I also came to realize why I was lost when I had arrived at the Hangzhou train station.  The "Taxi" sign had a down-pointing arrow, so I assumed it meant to take the nearby stairs down.  Instead, the down-pointing arrow meant "walk straight ahead."  I think the same sign in the USA would probably have an up-pointing arrow but as I write this, I'm not certain.  It is something I'll pay more attention to when I get back to the USA.

A TECHNOLOGY DIVERSION FOR ANY SO INCLINED: Now a little technology diversion to share a few details on how I've moved about so easily on this trip.  As I've previously mentioned, there is a wonderful map app called "MapsWithMe" (for iPhone and Android) that allows you to have detailed destination maps on your phone or device without need for the internet.  While it won't actually route you (like a dedicated GPS or a cell phone with access to data), it does show you a GPS indicator of direction of travel (included with free/lite version) and allows you to pre-mark the points you want to retain if you pay for the Pro version/$4.99.  Once I started walking in any direction, the arrow immediately shows me where I am AND my direction of travel -- so I can instantly correct my course.

  This app is better than any other map when traveling outside the USA where data, when you can get it, is slow and/or costly.  One caveat:  iPhones won't use GPS unless you are connected to carrier (for example, not in Airport mode) but Wifi only iPads and mini-iPads can't use GPS unless on a WiFi network !  The Google Nexus 7 tablet has built in standard GPS.  It is the perfect traveling companion.

*For the real techies who may challenge me:  iPhones, iPads and mini-iPads have what is known as A-GPS -- a non-standard (after all they are Apple's) assisted GPS which means it first finds you on the cell connections -- then works.  This is ok in the USA (as long as you are not in Airplane Mode) and if you are traveling where you have a cell connection.  But it makes the GPS non-functioning in these devices without a cell connection. MapsWithMe works as a detailed map whether or not you have a functioning GPS -- you just don't get the actual direction of travel (blue arrow) unless the GPS is working.  For me, since my iPhone is connected (roaming) here in China -- I can effectively use it and the GPS works. The Android driven Google Nexus 7 (a 7 inch screen pad - now $171 on Amazon ) has a standard GPS -- it works all the time and doesn't require a cell connection or wifi connection at all. Initially Amazon Fire tablets did not have GPS -- but now there are several models. I'm guessing that perhaps the cheapest still don't, but the more expensive may.

October 15 - A Chicken Leg From Strangers

First, before I forget again, I'm going to insert a photo of my massause.   I forgot to add it to yesterday's posting.

As I walked back to the hostel, I diverted my path to take in the 4th Annual Folk Art Festival that was being held not far from my hostel.  It was very similar to our similar festivals, with lots of booths of crafts.

Shortly, I decided I needed to get something to eat -- always a huge challenge unless I was willing to change my attitude and eat at American chains -- because there are plenty of them everywhere in the cites: Subway, Dairy Queen, McD, KFC, etc.  But part of my fun here is pushing my comfort zone -- particularly in trying to get something ordered even if it something that is not unusual.

After passing by many restaurants -- including some that would have made ordering easy (photos), I happened to pass a series of food stalls that Hongwei had pointed out to me during our walk.  I remember him saying something about there being lots of popular food at these booths (confirmed by how crowded it was) -- and it reminded me of a line of food carts on each side flanking small tables.  Noisy and plenty smelly as the first booth featured the ever common "stinky" tofu that is popular China.

I walked the entire length, both sides and finally decided that I wasn't hungry enough to be very adventurous -- settling on a simple bowl of rice.

I found an empty seat with 3 others (2 guys and 1 girl) who were obviously together.

I smiled, pointing -- and they smiled, pointing.  It was clear that I could sit there.  I started to eat my rice (cold and not at all tasty) and ventured the common "do you speak English?"  They all laughed and said no -- but then the older guy said "Where you from?"  Momentarily I thought he might speak a little English, but when I replied "America" -- he gave a blank look and after I tried a couple more times, I realized I wasn't getting through.  I then attempted "Meiguoren" which I can now write because I've looked it up...but at the time it came out of my mouth something like "why reeg run."  They laughed but the girl figured it out and repeated it for all and all heads nodded and smiled.  As I have described before, after a few words -- any words -- a comfort sets in that allows those I meet to try more English.

They were eating a whole cooked chicken -- like the ones available in all the USA grocery stores -- but interestingly it was served with light weight plastic gloves -- so it could be eaten right there without getting messy (you can see the gloves in the photo).

Well, the girl grabbed off a leg and offered to me.  I accepted and devoured it -- it was excellent.

A few more words and the common question "How old you?"   In the moment I forgot something I learned on a prior trip, that Chinese count to 10 with just one hand.  So after I counted my fingers to six and then to 2, the older guy took great pleasure in making sure I knew that 62 should be signed with just a six (holding your hand as we might if we were trying to indicate "hang loose") and 2.   We then said goodbyes and they disappearred into the crowd.

Another fun moment of the trip -- and the chicken was excellent, making my rice taste even worse!

October 15 - Spa Day

Before turning in for the night last evening, I decided to enjoy another day in Hangzhou if the hostel had room (they did).  The hostel (Ho Fang) is one of the nicest I've stayed at -- and I thought it would be fun to stay another day, explore a little on my own and rest my feet from the days of walking I've been doing.

I had also had time to do more internet research on massages in China -- and was feeling confident that I might try to get that accomplished as I had identified a reputable chain.  In writing about Chinese massages, Lonely Planet says: "...midrange massage parlours are a must -- for the price of a cocktail or three you get your own set of PJs, some post-therapy tea and Chinese flute music to chill out with.  Just don't expect the masseuses to be gentle. As they say: no pain, no gain..."

So this morning I plotted a walking route to the massage place and with my frequently written about "what's the worse that came happen" actually scaring me -- I set out to get a foot massage.  Little did I know that getting there would be so interesting as I happened down a narrow street which was a local meat market -- men were actually slaughtering and skinning sheep right there in the street.  I snapped pictures as quickly and unnoticed as I could.  Definitely no westerners anywhere around my route today.  Not exactly what I was expecting or wanting to see on my way to a massage, but interesting nonetheless.

Thereafter I walked cautiously toward the massage place. The modest, business-like uniforms of the staff seemed to confirm what I had read.  I proceeded inside -- and with almost no English spoken or understood, I was led to a waiting room where I was seated with another Chinese gentleman enjoying tea and fruit.  Soon I was led to a private room where the attendant at least knew the words "how much" and foot and body.  She pointed to a sign in the room that was all in Chinese except the dollar amounts and I could figure from where she was pointing that a foot massage would be a little less than $30 USD for one hour and a body massage would be a little more than $30 USD for an hour.  As often is the case in China, she used her phone's calculator to show me the total price for both ¥377 (about $62 USD.  I said ok.  She asked if I wanted tea (or at least tea is the one word I understood) and I declined, having no idea what that would cost.  She then said some other things I didn't get except that she did utter the word "included" that caused me to say "ok."  Shortly a male attendant returned with plates of watermelon and grapefruit and a bottled water.  Things were getting off to a good start.

Soon another woman came in with a bucket of warm water, and I was soon enjoying a wonderful foot and leg massage.  The massause spoke almost no English but I decided to try to learn a little by showing her a photo of my family on the Google Nexus pad.  I could discern that she was able to understand what I was saying and from that, I was able to get her to tell me that she had two boys (by pointing to the boys in my family), ages 9 and 5, and she was 33 (by showing fingers) and had been a masseuse for 5 years (questions/answers with numbers always seem to be the easiest to try to bridge the language barrier).  With a little rapport established, I relaxed and felt quite self-indulged as I enjoyed my fruit while having my tired feet worked on.  Thereafter, she led me to another room and proceeded to give my back a seriously deep massage (definitely some pain in both the foot and back massage) She must have been able to tell which muscles were tense because she worked on those the most.  All wonderfully relaxing even with the pain. 

Another adventure success which made my brain feel as good as the massage itself.   I will now tell others what my daughter told me after she and her husband taught in China, that a Chinese massage should be on a the "must-do" list when in China.

The charge was exactly what the attendant had shown me and I left feeling like my feet were walking on clouds -- and purposely routed myself another way back to the hostel area so I wouldn't have to see the dead sheep.

October 14 - A New Friend in "Heaven on Earth"

Hongwei (age 23 and a senior in college who wants to be a financial analyst) could not have been more friendly and helpful as I quickly learned that he even had a plan for our time together -- get me to my hostel, have lunch, walk around the beautiful West Lake (what makes this place "heaven" on earth) and dinner together.

I could tell from the conversation that Andy had already told him that I liked eating authentic native food that he regularly ate -- and we did just that.  In addition, the long walk -- on a spectacularly beautiful day gave us both lots of time to get to know each other.  Over a fun lunch (chicken feet - correctly translated as "phoenix" feet, lotus root and noodles)

I learned that he was very apprehensive about our day together because he lacked confidence in his English.  He had never had an opportunity to talk or learn from a native English speaker -- and had been cautioned by his sister (who lived in Portland for two years) that his English was not good.  As we talked, his confidence grew such that we even talked about confidence.  His command of the language isn't what Andy's or his sister's is yet, but it was easy to communicate.

On our walk (easily 5 or 6 miles) I totally enjoyed asking him all kinds of questions about culture, food, education, relationships (he has a long time girlfriend who is going to college in his hometown -- a 4 1/2 hour train ride away), family life.

As dinner time approached -- he took me to a wonderful restaurant that specialized in the kind of food from his hometown of Wenzhou and we feasted on shrimp and duck -- a vegetable and a soup for less than $20 -- and enjoyed a long discussion about Chinese eating etiquette as I learned to shuck the little fried shrimp with my teeth and spit the shells on the plate while loving the taste and experience.

I know I've added another friend to my life!  

October 14 - A Sense of Accomplishment

When I started this trip, I had a general plan to get to Beijing to visit a brass instrument factory that produced a tuba that I purchased a couple of years ago.  I had gotten to know the company president when I purchased the tuba at one of the trade shows held in Anaheim.  Well, when I planned the trip I didn't know that I would be invited by Andy's girlfriend to visit her hometown of Wenzhou and that visit would actually happen (now scheduled for this coming weekend).  The chance to get to know another family in China certainly trumped my interest in seeing the manufacturing plant (like I had in Germany)-- so last night I decided to cancel plans to travel to Beijing (a 5 hour high speed train ride and $100 each way from Shanghai) which had been in my plans for this week.  Instead, I decided to make an overnight trip to the 4th largest city in China (pop 8.7 million) and reputed to be among the most beautiful earning it this slogan: "In paradise there is a heaven, on earth there is Hangzhou."

With Andy's help, we determined that the 55 minute high speed train cost about $12.50 USD and I arranged a hostel there using the well-regarded Hostelworld.com web site.  Andy suggested that I might want to try to connect with his girlfriend's brother, Hongwei, who is a student at a Hangzhou university. This possibility led to various personal and logistical considerations:  did he want to meet me; did he have time free from his schooling; how and where would we connect.  Using the most common messaging program in China (WeChat), Andy was able to create the necessary arrangements while I added the WeChat program to my iPhone and created an account.  Shortly, I was in direct communication with Hongwei.  Hongwei expressed a lack of confidence in his ability with spoken English -- but had the day off and was willing to "host" me.

So, this morning I headed out early to catch the subway to Shanghai's Hongqiao Train Station.  A new adventure!

Now,  please allow me to give a detailed description of the next few minutes. Anyone who has traveled in China will recognize and laugh along with the challenges I describe -- the rest of you will learn part of the reason I enjoy visiting China:  every little accomplishment, no matter how insignificant -- from finding a toilet, to filling your belly, to getting to your destination -- comes with such intense satisfaction.  Anyway, here's the story:

Getting to the train station was easy and initially I thought getting the ticket and on the train would be easy because the station was modern and signage included English.  The easy part ended when I saw lines of Chinese both at machines and at the counter waiting to purchase tickets.  I waited for a machine hoping it would have an English button like I had experienced on my solo trip to Xian on my last trip -- and was pleased that it did.  Quickly I punched in my destination, determined which train I wanted and touched "purchase." The programmers must have decided to stop with the English at that point as I was unable to figure out how to actually accomplish the purchase without some pre-exisiting "train card." It wouldn't take my money or credit card and I was left with cancelling the transaction and waiting in another line which was about 20 people deep.

As I waited my turn, I tore pages from the Lonely Planet book and began underlining and circling what I needed in the event that the ticket representative spoke no English.  It was a good thing I was prepared because she seemed to not understand any English.

I was happy to get my ticket but then realized that I had no idea where the train gates were as I rushed around in the massive building -- trying to follow others who hurried about.

When I thought there was no additional place to look, I stopped one gentlemen and tried to point to my ticket and shrug my shoulders along with my words.  He looked very puzzled, pulled out his iPhone and pulled up the calendar and pointed to today's date.  I quickly realized that I hadn't been pointing to the gate number but the date on the ticket -- and he probably thought I was asking what the date was.  It would have been a humorous moment except I felt the time ticking away to find the platform or miss my train and have to purchase yet another ticket. When I then pointed to the gate/platform, he just shrugged his shoulders.  Things weren't going well.

I then stopped a middle aged woman -- and she just pointed to the other end of the massive building -- so off I went in that direction hoping I'd see something along the way.  Within 30 seconds or so, the woman was running to catch up with me -- and while speaking only Chinese, made motions that it was clear I should follow her.  I'm guessing she had only belatedly realized that I really didn't know what I was doing when she had directed me to the other end of the station.

It turns out that all the boarding gates -- that lead to the platforms -- are on the upper level of the station -- and she was leading me to the escalators that led to the entrance to the departure hall.  It was also gigantic.  I thanked her several times with my slaughtered "xiexie" thank you which she may not have understood from my Chinese but probably did from my body language.  She smiled.  Once again, as has happened frequently, someone here helped me out when I needed it.

Getting on the train and finding my seat was a breeze -- and as I got comfortable in my chair, that fun sense of accomplishment swept over me.

The challenges returned as soon as I exited the train into Hangzhou's massive train station -- this one very old and with little English signage.  I had arranged to meet Hongwei at the hostel and he had texted me Chinese characters to give to a cab driver -- but I got lost following a down arrow for a "Taxi" and had to retrace my steps back into the main hall with thousands of people rushing about.

Realizing that the signs were only going to lead me to where I had been, I asked a couple people and they just pointed in the direction I had already been.  And, as I walked, several men approached me asking if I wanted a taxi.  Fearing the Lonely Planet taxi scam warnings, I was set on finding the taxi queue myself -- however thankfully when one young person approached me -- for some unknown reason I didn't waive him off as I had done others.  I stopped long enough for him to explain that he was Hongwei.  He had decided on his own that I might get lost and decided to find me at the train station.  He would have been impossible for me to pick him out in the station -- but a 6'1" bald white guy with a white goatee was easy for him to find.

My stress for the day was over -- I now was going to spend the rest of the day with a new friend.

October 13 - Embracing The Masses

Andy had the day off and offered to take me to the local "farmer's market," held daily near his apartment. It was huge and I was the only westerner in the many streets/alleys/buildings where it is held.  It was interesting to be able to have leisurely discussions with Andy about the various foods and methods of preparation.  Of course there was plenty to shock the ordinary westerner -- pick out your live chicken, pigeon or dove and watch them kill, pluck and clean it for you:

and other edibles (frogs, turtles and eels):

as well as lots of vegetables, fish and eggs.

Rather than eat at any of the several vendor's in the market, Andy wanted me to try the dumplings at a nearby place that was known for it's excellent dumplings. So, we enjoyed a breakfast of these yummy dumplings (both in a dough wrap - served with vinegar - and in a soup/broth) while getting to watch them make them:

Following breakfast, we caught the subway to a rather touristy (think Chinese tourists) and expat area known as the "French Concession."  Lonely planet says it was "once home to the bulk of Shanghai's adventurers, revolutionaries, gangsters, prostitutes and writers..." whereas today it is " a trendy and happening enclave, excellent for random exploration..."  We explored it some, enjoyed some traditional coconut popsicle (that Andy remembered fondly from his childhood) and strolled the nearby Fuxing Park teaming with Sunday visitors -- including some singing Karaoke in one part of the park and a man practicing playing rock drums to music in another part (he wasn't "busking" - doing it for tips; he was just enjoying himself and the many people who had gathered around).

Andy returned to his apartment, needing to get laundry done and take care of other matters, but I continued the day's adventure.  Initially I was going to stay away from the Yu Gardens because Lonely Planets guidance that the crowds can be challenging -- and I figured it would be doubly difficult as today is Sunday. But on second thought, I recalculated that it would be most interesting to see the area at its most crowded.  So, with a connection on the subway, I walked into a mass of humanity like I hadn't seen since the last time I visited China.  The Gardens themselves weren't that crowded, but the shopping area around them was shoulder to shoulder including with groups of western tourists being led around by flag carriers just like we see in the USA.

 I got as much entertainment value out of seeing all the shapes, sizes and expressions of the westerners as I did the locals. The Gardens themselves were underwhelming but interesting -- very similar Portland's Lan Su Chinese Garden.

I navigated myself back to Andy's apartment intent on getting a famous Shanghai foot massage -- but after walking the streets near his place, I decided I needed to do some more homework on how to distinguish an actual massage business from a front for prostitution.  I didn't see any actual red or pink lights -- as I expected from prior reading/talking, but some of the places looked way too swank and the door keepers too eager in their stiletto heels.

Andy led me to a place near his apartment that he hadn't visited but which had the type of food he grew up on in northern China.  We both were amazed at the proportions and feasted on more deliciousness:

October 12 - Different Strokes For Different Folks

I awoke very early -- and decided to begin my day early as well, getting out of apartment just around 7am intent on walking the Riverside Promenade -- the other side of the river from "The Bund" riverwalk.  It was a spectacularly beautiful morning and I only met one couple and a few maintenance workers during my waterfront walk.  The couple asked me to use their iPad to take a photo of them -- and so started yet another wonderful conversation, and they took a photo of me.

A fun morning conversation.  Check out the beautiful blue sky.  Another beautiful day in a beautiful city.

I then caught the subway back to People's Square and found my way to the Shanghai Museum which Lonely Planet reports as a "must-see."  I arrived shortly after they opened to the beautiful building in a beautiful setting -- rented the handheld audio tour guide -- and proceeded to tour the various bronze, ceramic, coin, calligraphy, sculpture, jade, furniture artifacts dating back thousands of years BC.   It was interesting but definitely not on any "must-see" list of mine.  In fact, the artifacts, encased in lovely display cases, would be just as interesting if seen as computer photos (like the many shown like this on the museum's web site here) where one could leisurely read all the details -- rather than so much reading (and listening to the descriptions on the tour device) while standing.  In addition, while the displays were created to be aesthetically pleasing -- they were not organized in any sort of timeline -- so my mind was constantly whipped from one dynasty to another without regard to a timeline of cultural change.  It didn't help that the museum quickly became flooded with the largest concentration of westerners I have encountered on this trip.  It's obviously listed as a "must-see" in lots of tour books -- perhaps because it's free.

I get it that some people are more attracted to these type of displays than I am -- but in a tour book I would write, it would be listed in the section -- "see if you have run out of other things to do or it's raining."

After this visit, I found some snack bar/street food -- and enjoyed a noodle/vegetable filled crepe:

Shakespeare said "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet!" but the question I have is whether someone would take the time to smell it if it was called a "turnip" or an "onion."  I believe it is this analogy that applies to my next stop: the Shangai Urban Planning Exhibition Hall.  Doesn't that just sound like a building full of maps and documents, like dry and boring environmental impact statements.  Even Lonely Planet doesn't list it as a "must-see" -- though they do note that it contains "an incredible model layout of the megalopolis-to-come plus a dizzying Virtual World 3D wrap-around tour..." of Shanghai.  Since it was directly across the street from the Museum (and next to impressive municipal building), I decided to risk the ¥30 (about $5) just to see the model and the 3D tour.  

It was $5 well spent -- even if the place is poorly named.  What a fun collection of then/now photos and interactive displays (both for kids and adults) and both the city model and the 3D tour were spectacular.  It is hard to capture the size of the model in this photo, but you can get an idea.  In addition, they alternated between showing it with full overhead lighting and with many of the building windows lit in a night seen.

Of course everyone has their own tastes but this is an uncommon case where Lonely Planet called it wrong for me -- as I would have made this Exhibition Hall the "must-see" and the Shanghai Museum optional.  Different strokes for different folks.

Andy and I headed out into his nearby neighborhood to sample more deliciousness.

October 11 - The Other 23.75 Hours

Well, apart from the attempted scam that took 15 or 20 minutes, it really was a very magnificient day.  But truth be told, even the attempted scam was interesting -- and has given me additional entertainment finding several youtube videos showing the scam in practice (just search on Shanghai tea scam).  However, it's worth saying that in my case, the "friends" never said we were going for tea -- they just suggested we walk together through the "more authentic" streets ahead.

Nevertheless, allow me to blog about the rest of the day.  Since shopping ranks right up there with cleaning toilets on my priority list, and much of Shanghai -- and every other major city in the world -- is devoted to such conspicuous consumption -- I choose to ignore about 25% of every tour book -- including Lonely Planet.  However, I did exit the subway in order to be able to take in the humanity on one of the many major shopping districts - East Ninjing Road.  It was a wonderful "people-watching" stroll -- but the glitz and glamor on the global businesses there did not interest me at all.

This shopping district leads directly to People's Square and People's Park which were - except for the scam diversion - quite beautiful and serene with lots of older Chinese playing cards in large groups or practicing T'ai Chi.  Thereafter I headed towards the "not to be missed" waterfront "Bund" area.  Lonely Planet advises that the term originally referred to "an embankment of a muddy waterfront." Today "The Bund" is a beautifully maintained, expansive and elevated walkway on the "Old Town" side of the river that runs through the middle of Shanghai. It is lined with many historic mid-19th century hotels, banks and trading houses and provides spectacular views across the river to the high rises along the waterfront of the new area of Shanghai (Pudong).

On my way to The Bund, my stomach urged me to find something to eat.  So, when I noticed a street with several restaurants, I went in the first one

that had lots of people (all Chinese, of course) and was shown the only available seat, sharing a table with a middle age woman.  I intended to order by pointing to what she was having (which looked delicious and because the all-Chinese menu had few photos) but the waitress, who spoke some English, asked me if I would like to try their dumplings and soup.  I chose "cabbage dumplings" from those offered.

I sat uncomfortably silent across from this woman for a minute or so -- wondering if she was disappointed to having to share her table with me while I mustered the courage to ask: "Do you speak any English?"  Her response was "a little."  I then just thanked her for allowing me to sit at the table with her.  Her warm smile was followed with the very typical "where are you from?"  And so began another warm encounter -- challenged only because of her "little" amount of Engish -- and my "no" amount of Chinese.  I learned she was from the city of Xian (home of the Terracotta Warriors which I had visited on my last solo trip in China) and that I had happened upon a restaurant that specialized in Xian style cooking -- especially their dumplings.  In hindsight, I'm guessing the waitress must have assumed that the only white guy in the place must have specifically come in to have the well-regarded Xian dumplings.

The dumplings and soup were delicious -- as was the feeling of success for having arranged yet another great meal and happened upon another fun encounter.  For the record, the dumplings/soup cost me the US equivalent of about $3.00 and a Sprite set me back another 82 cents (and no tipping in restaurants).  Have I said how much I like eating in China?  Part of it is certainly the wonderful food, but part of it is that the food is so affordable.

I then enjoyed a wonderful stroll along the supremely beautiful Bund -- on a perfectly beautiful day.  Took a few photos for normal Chinese tourists along the way, and got a few taken of me

After reaching the end of the walkway, I proceeded to take the "Bund Sightseeing Tunnel" underneath the river back to Pudong where I could get closer to very unique "Oriental Pearl Tower"

that is sort of like Seattle's Space Needle in making the city's skyline easily identified.

The "Bund Sightseeing Tunnel" is very accurately described in the Lonely Planet Guide: "The weirdest way to get to Pudong...through a tunnel of garish lights."  I feel confident youngsters would love it -- as did the Chinese tourists that I happened to ride with -- with more requests for photos!

I walked around the Pearl Tower and through the Financial District and yet another beautiful park (Lujiazui) enroute to the subway stop of the same name to get back to Andy's.

As prearranged, when Andy got home from work, we headed out into the night to yet another wonderful restaurant -- where the live chicken was brought to our table for approval enroute to the kitchen.  Another delicious and interesting meal -- with lots of great conversation. I've learned so much about Chinese culture and customs from Andy who was raised by peasant parents in a remote village -- including the meager living of peasants that has influenced Chinese custom of eating every part of the chicken -- including the feet and head.  I had tried -- and not liked -- chicken feet before at the school cafeteria where my daughter/son-in-law worked.  But tonight the chicken feet were plenty tasty -- and I even bit into the chicken's comb which was very fatty in texture and taste.

All in all, another very satisfying day.

October 11 - Happily Suspicious of "Shanghaiing"

I've often said that the most reported upon events of any trip are not the days of wonderful sights, great food and pleasant encounters -- but the few moments when the sights weren't so wonderful, the food was awful and the encounters were a little off.  A good example occurred on my 2010 China trip with my daughters when, keeping true to my mantra "when traveling, keep pushing your food comfort zone," I chose one restaurant where the food was truly awful.  We've laughed and talked more about that one bad meal, among weeks of great ones.

Simarly, one short encounter today may be among the "most told" stories of this trip:   Allow me to introduce you to a very nice couple who were accompanied by a similar friendly looking "cousin" when they asked if I would take their photo in front of this monument in Shanghai's People's Square:

It's a common request among tourists.  And it has also been common in my experiences in China to have some Chinese want to continue conversations just so they could practice their English. And after some friendly conversation during which I learned the woman was a English teacher on holiday with her boyfriend and his cousin -- I asked the cousin to take the above photo.  Further conversation led to them inviting me to accompany them on a nearby "more authentic" street away from the shopper's paradise, touristy shopping district near the People's Square park. The fun conversation continued for a bit -- but my suspicious nature and something I had read in the "Crime" section on page 992 of the Lonely Planet Guide began to emerge from my memory:

"Well-dressed girls flock along Shanghai's East Nanjing Rd....asking single men to photograph them on their mobile phones before dragging them to expensive cafes or Chinese teahouses, leaving them to foot the monstrous bills."

My initial assessment was that my new "friends" didn't seem to fit the warning but I was proceeding cautiously, even asking how this "teacher" had a weekday off especially this close to the national week long holiday last week -- for which I got an answer about job-sharing.  I also thought it a little strange that the "husband" was leading the way rather than hanging back with the "cousin" and "his wife" to participate in the conversation.  After a couple of blocks, they guided the way to the entrance of a rather obscure "tea house" and my Lonely Planet reading -- and suspicious nature -- served me well as I stopped short of the entrance and told them that I wasn't ready for tea as the day was young and I had much to see. There was no pressure, no mean words by them or me -- just a casual type exchange -- "it was nice to meet and talk with you."

As I rounded the corner away from their "tea house" -- I enjoyed that pleasant satisfaction of knowing that today I hadn't been caught in their scam and that once again my Lonely Planet Guide had been valuable.  I continued through People's Square, where I had left off -- and when I exited the park at a different section I was again approached by a similar looking couple for another photo.  This time it was more apparent it was a scam because the two who approached me had been talking with a group of 4 or 5 -- and I immediately knew that they could have asked one of those friends to take their photo.  I just said "no thanks" and kept walking.

So, only time will tell whether this attempt to Shanghai me will be among the most told stories of the trip.

Now -- straight from Wikipedia: "The verb "to shanghai" joined the lexicon with "crimping" and "sailor thieves" in the 1850s.^[17] The most widely accepted theory of the word's origin is that it comes from the Chinese city of Shanghai, a common destination of the ships with abducted crews.^[1][17] The term has since expanded to mean "kidnapped" or "induced to do something by means of fraud."  If you read the entire Wikipedia entry here, you'll learn that it was widespread and common in Portland in the mid-19th century.
   

October 10 - Musical and Cullinary Adventures

A good night's sleep, a new city to explore, a "bucket list" item to complete -- and that precious card from Amelia, found me bounding out of the apartment. It was fun to retrace the route to the subway and navigate the necessary transfer to arrive at Shanghai's New Expo Center for the opening of Music China 2013.  As noted my first post to this blog, Music China is the largest musical instrument trade show in the world -- where manufacturer's of everything musical (virtually every musical item) display their products -- primarily for music related distributors and retailers. These trade shows (the USA one is held in Anahiem in January each year) allow attendees to actually touch/play with all the products, and feature various groups and endorsing artists performing with the displayed instruments.

Upon arrival, I quickly learned that Shanghai's New Expo Center is a fair grounds of 12 massive buildings around an open field where several outdoor stages were set up.  The event was held simultaneously with a trade show for all stage gear (think lighting, speakers, massive video displays, fog machines, mixing boards).

I wore my feet (and ears) out traipsing through the halls -- spending a little extra time in the exhibit hall for traditional Asian instruments -- something unique to this show.  It was particularly satisfying to know that I have attended three of the four major such shows in the world and the 4th isn't even on my bucket list (yet) -- it's in Moscow.

Just to give you a little taste -- you might want to check out this youtube video I posted that gives a less than 30 seconds of a demo by 3 tubas and 5 trombones -- and check out these unusual instruments I ran across:

Now, ever since visiting China for the first time in 2009, I've enjoyed various signs that are uncommon to me -- either in their English or their graphics.  This is a good example of one I've seen before -- this time over the urinals in the restrooms at the Expo:

Upon exiting the Expo in the early afternoon, I used my trusty MapsWithMe app to decide that I could explore the nearby Century Park before getting on the subway at a different location.  I'm not sure whether the ¥10 (about $1.63) entrance fee is primarily to keep young people from congregating in the parks (like the menacing street kids in Portland parks) or to keep the toll takers employed, but whatever the reason -- the park was truly magnificent.  A wonderful stroll in a beautiful, serene place -- complete with a beautiful lake with motorized paddle boats for rent -- to escape from the city bustle around it.

My long walk through the park and surrounding entryways allowed me only go one stop on the subway before finding my way back to Andy's apartment.

When coordinating this trip, via email, with Andy, I assured him that I wished to eat no American food while I was here -- and welcomed his help in exposing me to the most authentic Chinese meals available. For my first evening meal with Andy, he took me to a street just around the corner from his apartment and treated me (he insisted it was a host's tradition) to the amazing dinner below.  The barbecued and dried fish was served and eaten from the boiling, and spicey hot pot to which we added noodles, lotus root, and lettuce -- served with side dishes of various beans, seaweed and, the most unusual,  preserved duck eggs topped with dried, finely shredded meat.  It was all delicious.

After dinner, Andy took me to the local grocery store where we picked up some needed supplies and some fruit including a "dragon fruit" (a Thai delicacy) while Andy educated me on other foods not common in American markets.

The day had been perfect from beginning to end even though my feet and legs were telling me I overworked them.  Nonetheless, all the walking and the great meal made sleep come easy.